A complete watch service involves dozens of precise steps executed by skilled technicians. Understanding the process helps you appreciate why quality service takes time and costs what it does. Here's what happens when your watch goes in for professional care.
Initial Assessment
The watchmaker begins by documenting the watch's condition—noting any cosmetic issues, testing functions, and recording accuracy on a timing machine. This baseline helps identify problems and verify improvements after service. You'll typically receive an estimate based on this assessment.
Complete Disassembly
The watch is carefully taken apart, piece by piece. First, the movement is removed from the case. Then the movement itself is disassembled into individual components—sometimes over 200 parts for complicated watches. Each component is inspected for wear, damage, or contamination.
The case, bracelet, crown, and crystal are separated for individual attention. Everything gets its own cleaning and inspection process.
Cleaning the Movement
Movement components are cleaned in specialized ultrasonic machines using watchmaker-grade cleaning solutions. Multiple cleaning cycles remove old lubricants, dust, and debris that accumulated over years. Components emerge pristine—ready for fresh lubrication.
Some delicate components require hand-cleaning rather than ultrasonic treatment. The hairspring and balance wheel assembly, in particular, need gentle handling.
Component Inspection
Under magnification, the watchmaker examines each component for wear, corrosion, or damage. Worn parts are replaced—pivots, jewels, springs, and gears all have finite lifespans. This inspection determines which parts need replacement and affects the final service cost.
The mainspring is typically replaced during complete service regardless of apparent condition—they fatigue over time and represent a common failure point.
Lubrication
Fresh lubricants are applied to precisely specified points using specialized applicators. Different lubricants serve different purposes—some for high-speed pivots, others for slow-moving calendar wheels, others for metal-on-metal contact points. Proper lubrication is critical for accuracy and longevity.
Modern synthetic lubricants last longer than older oils, but they still degrade over 5-10 years.
Reassembly
The movement is reassembled in precise order—some components must be installed before others. This requires steady hands and deep knowledge of the specific caliber. One misplaced component can prevent the entire movement from functioning.
Regulation
With the movement reassembled, the watchmaker adjusts timing using the regulator—fine-tuning the effective length of the hairspring to achieve target accuracy. The watch is tested in multiple positions (dial up, dial down, crown up, etc.) because gravity affects timing differently depending on orientation.
COSC-certified chronometers must meet strict standards in multiple positions. Even non-certified watches benefit from positional adjustment.
Case Work
While movement service proceeds, the case receives attention. Old gaskets are replaced with fresh ones to restore water resistance. The case can be polished to remove scratches—though collectors of vintage watches often prefer unpolished cases to preserve originality.
The crystal is inspected and replaced if scratched. Sapphire crystals rarely need replacement; acrylic crystals scratch more easily but can sometimes be polished.
Bracelet Service
Metal bracelets are disassembled, cleaned ultrasonically, and inspected for worn links or stretched pins. Clasp mechanisms are lubricated and adjusted. The bracelet often emerges looking significantly better than it went in.
Reassembling the Watch
The serviced movement is carefully cased—installed back into the clean, resealed case. The crown and any pushers are connected. The caseback is secured with proper torque. Hands are installed with precise alignment.
Water Resistance Testing
If the watch has water resistance ratings, it's tested to verify the seals work. This typically involves pressure testing in specialized equipment—not actual immersion. The watch should meet or exceed its rated depth.
Final Testing
The completed watch runs on a timing machine for extended periods—often 24-48 hours—in multiple positions to verify accuracy. All functions are tested: date changes, chronograph operation, any complications. Only after passing all tests is the watch ready for return.
Service Timeline
Complete service typically takes 4-8 weeks. Authorized service centers for luxury brands often take longer due to parts ordering and quality control procedures. Independent watchmakers may work faster but still need adequate time for proper service.
Rush jobs compromise quality. A watchmaker who promises overnight service is cutting corners somewhere.
What You Receive
Upon completion, you should receive documentation of work performed, any replaced parts (upon request), timing results, and water resistance test results if applicable. This documentation becomes part of your watch's service history—valuable for future sales or service.